After dark > Kita-senju

• Sakaba country Senju drinking quarter千住の飲み屋街

  The blocks around the station — Shukubamachi-dori, Tokiwa-dori and the lanes between — are named alongside Tateishi and Akabane as the city’s great shitamachi drinking districts. Counters open early: several pour from mid-afternoon and are full by five. Most add an otoshi.

• Retro alley Nomiya Yokochoときわ通り

  Officially Tokiwa-dori, known locally as nomi-yoko: a warren of narrow lanes off the west exit grown out of postwar barracks — red lanterns, motsu-yaki smoke, standing counters. Choose your door: the same lanes carry snack bars where the bill is a different game.

No opening hours here — small bars keep their own, and many close without notice. Check before you set off, and ignore anyone on the street offering to take you somewhere.

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